My life in the water started before I could walk.
For as long as I can remember I was attacking the beach; whether it was fishing, surfing, dick dragging or diving. One day, when I was five, my dad came home with this single fin Hawaiian Island Creations 5″11. I remember that day so clearly in my mind, because the waves were huge that winter, and even on the bus trip home from I could see the waves.
Anyway, my dad told me, “Go put some trunks on. We’re going to try your new board.” At this point, I was kinda freaking. At five years old, 3ft is like 30ft. The waves were huge to me. Before we paddled, I remember freezing up and having second thoughts. In the end, I’m glad I went through with it, because that day changed my life.